All,

I had a buddy swing by today and we started back on a molasses speed restore of my '67 IIA 109" - much to my wife's happiness as she wants the garage back. I've got some frame rot we're looking to get down to with removal of the bed and then assess from there. (Any names of people that do good frame work in the Richmond area would be greatly appreciated.)

Currently the wheels are seized up, so I'm looking to the forum for any tips on addressing that? My buddy (David) has done a fair amount of non-Rover work and suggested forums might be able to point to tricks that short cut wheel removal.

I'm tracking down my loaned out "green" manual now for reference.

Thanks,
Brad

Not real sure what you mean by seized up - you mean the wheels will not turn? or the wheel cannot be removed from the hub? I think you mean they cannot be removed, in which case a good penetrating oil like Kroil, PB Blaster or similar followed by some well placed muscle. Try simply loosening the lug nuts, but not quite removing, and then with the truck setting on the ground shake it good and hard side to side, that may be enough to help free them up. Otherwise a large pry bar from the back side (truck jacked up now of course) working your way around the wheel should do the trick.

Mike,

Thanks for the reply.

It's actually the first case - the wheels won't turn readily, with a lot of force we can get it to move a few inches each time. Dave and I tried the bleeder valve at the bottom of the brake, but no luck. Dave didn't know if there was a means of releasing the brakes short of removing each wheel? With the wheels free, we can back it onto a trailer to address the frame issues and then swing back around for brake rehab at a future date.

Kind regards,
Brad

Hey Brad,
With the older rovers, there's really only two reasons for the wheels to have that sort of resistance. A) as you suspected, the brakes are not releasing. Typically, this will be because the pistons in the wheel cylinders are corroded, and can't retract all the way. The only way to fix this is to remove the wheel, drum and shoes. Then you have to pull out the cylinders and hone the inside of the aluminum body, as well as the outside of the steel cylinders. I would replace the rubber parts as well. There's no need to replace the whole cylinder. I've had this problem with my 65 IIa many times. The other option is that B) the master cylinder adjustment on the front side of the pedal box is adjusted in too far, not allowing the return line to release brake pressure. Just adjust it out all the way and it should release. If you need someone with some time on rovers to come look at it, just let me know. I'll be happy to come turn a few wrenches. They're really quite simple systems. I'm sure we can figure it out. My number is (407) 221-eight425.


Also, maybe it's unnecessary, but I'll be the first to admit that I've spent hours working on a brake issue that turned out to be that I left the handbrake on. :] Or maybe the problem is that the handbrake is stuck. That's a pretty easy issue. You could deal with that without even removing the driveshaft.



Ben

Smitty,

Thanks so much for the reply and offer of assistance. I'll keep you posted on what we find and/or hooking up to eyeball it.

Have a great wknd,
Brad